Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Icefields Highway

Here's another installment of the Canadian Adventure.

One of my favorite things in Alberta is the drive along the Icefields Highway. It goes from Lake Louise northwest to Jasper. It's not very long in miles (or kilometers), but it can take all day because there is so much to see. Seriously. I usually get annoyed by anyone wanting to stop on a road trip. A road trip is usually just necessary torture you must go through to arrive somewhere. However, some of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life are on this section of Hwy 93 between Lake Louise and Jasper. For example:

Waterfowl Lake

The Saskatchewan River valley
Athabasca Falls


Mistaya Canyon
Sunwapta FallsI know there are many more pictures I could grab, but that gives you a basic idea. Waterfalls, glaciers and blue lakes galore. Most of the places you can simply pull over to see, but a few of them require a short walk or hike. Mistaya Canyon is a very hidden treasure. From the road you would have no idea that anything worth seeing was down the trail, but it is truly stunning to see how the river has carved and sculpted the rocks over time.

Sunwapta Falls is an easy one to get to and to walk around and see. The trails and bridges were mostly strategically constructed to not hinder the view. However, Athabasca Falls is a tragedy. It's such an incredible rushing river that suddenly drops into a garden of enormous sculpted rocks and then flows into a high-walled canyon. But some idiot in the 60s constructed a bunch of hiddeous concrete walls and bridges EVERYWHERE. Sure, it makes walking around easy, but it is like a really, really bad 60s zoo exhibit. But the Athabasca River is beautiful--even though you have to see it with ugly concrete in the foreground.

The whole drive is full of beautiful vistas. If you're ever driving through there, take your time, bring your camera and tripod, and bring plenty of water and food. There are overpriced cafeterias at Athabasca Glacier and Sunwapta Falls, but, other than that, you're on your own for food and water.

Although the drive was amazing again, it was nice to finally get to our hotel in Jasper--my favorite town. I'll save that for my next post.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

I am a winner!

Throughout my life, I have won ribbons for various things. Once in 3rd grade, I won 1st place for the "vegetable art" contest. I also won a spelling bee or two. In 9th grade, I won a bunch of awards for certain nerdy things, including one from the state math contest. I even got a cash reward at the 9th grade awards night to cover my high school registration fees. In high school I lettered in ACADEMICS. Yes. Did you know you can do that? I did all three years. I did not get a letterman jacket, however. I settled for the S applique and the pins. I kept it hidden in a box under my bed with all of my other nerdy things. I got a 4-year full tuition scholarship to BYU as a reward for my studiousness. When I graduated from college, I was Summa Cum Laude, and I got to wear a special ribbon around my neck.

I'm not telling you these things to brag. I'm just trying to lay out a pattern. Did anyone notice what it was? None of the awards I have earned were in anything sports-related. In fact, I stink at almost every sport. I've blogged before about the years of wasted dance lessons and soccer teams that my parents provided for me. They were doing their best to try to help my uncoordinated body learn to function in a semi-socially acceptable fashion. When I was in 5th grade and the goalie of a soccer team, I accidentally kicked the ball over my head and into the net, scoring the winning point for the evil Roadrunners. Oh, how we hated that team. At this point, my parents and I both reached a silent understanding that they didn't need to sign me up for soccer ever again.

I was always tall for my age. I haven't grown since 5th grade. Yes. I was a freak. Everyone thought I should play volleyball and basketball for my Jr High team. I tried out in 7th grade--and didn't even make the first cut. I resigned myself to be a lifelong spectator. And I do love to watch sports. But I haven't ever tried anything until I got this running bug in January. It turns out that there was a sport I can be mediocre and not just pathetic in.

The Seattle 1/2 marathon was my first ever race. I did alright--I didn't walk and that was my goal. Today I ran my 2nd race--a 15k (9.3 miles for those metric-handicapped folks). I wanted to keep around a 9 minute pace. That was my goal. I started out just a little bit slower to warm up, and kept around a 9:20 pace for the first 2 miles. I could have been much faster, but the east wind reared its ugly head at about 2:00 am, and so the first 5 miles of the race were pretty much into the wind. I finished strong, averaging about 8:40 for the last 3 miles. Overall, my pace was 9:09 with a time of 1:24:30. I was on track for finishing a 1/2 marathon in under 2 hours. That's my goal for Las Vegas.

The funny thing was that when the race was over, and the runners were all waiting around as the awards were announced, MY name was called. I was stunned. Me? Jill? I had placed 5th in the 35-39 year female bracket, and I got a sweet ribbon to prove it!

It only took 37 years for me to earn a ribbon in a sporting event. Won't my momma be so proud? Hooray for me.

If only I had saved my ribbon from the 1979 Vegetable Art competition.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Lake Louise

Our next stop in Alberta was Lake Louise. We did not stay at the ultra fancy and beautiful Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise you've probably seen in pictures. Although it is in a primo location, and is very beautiful, it is a bit out of our price range--especially when we have to get 2 rooms. In the village of Lake Louise, there are many, many run-down, yucky places to stay if you can't afford the Chateau. There are a couple of nicer places near the Fairmont, but they are also very expensive--again 2 rooms sort of adds up. We discovered a little treasure last year, though at the Lake Louise Inn.

It's not fancy, but they have a loft suite that sleeps 8 (or 9). It's big and clean and has a full kitchen (again, for a cheapskate like me this is huge). The kids especially love the pool at the Lake Louise Inn. It is very nice, with a huge pool and 2 hot tubs. Last time we stayed here we did not come prepared for the cost of food in Lake Louise. Not just restaurants, but also the ONE market in Lake Louise has outrageous prices. It was like grocery shopping in Belize. Except that in Belize, if a box of cereal was $12, you knew that it was actually $6 US dollars, and that was OK because that box had come from the US and then over on a boat to the island. But in Lake Louise, right off of THE main highway through Canada, this one market really takes advantage of all of the tourists. Cereal was $12 a box. Milk was $9 a gallon. Cream cheese was $7 for a tiny tub. It is a huge stop for bus tours, and all of these people walk to this market to buy their food--it's the only option, and as I learned in 2nd grade, the law of supply and demand sets the prices. That's fine--but you know what they say, "Burn me once...." This year we were prepared and stocked up on food at Safeway in Canmore before heading to Lake Louise.

My favorite place near Lake Louise is Moraine Lake. It's one of the most beautiful places on earth--and so is the Valley of the Ten Peaks you drive through to get to it. Seriously, it takes your breath away. When we go here, I am like a kid at Christmas--I just can't wait to come around the corner to see it.

We hiked up the big rock pile to the panoramic viewpoint at Moraine Lake. The kids had fun scrambling and climbing all of the rocks. I just sat and took in the bright blue water and incredible mountains all around. Heaven.



We then went to Lake Louise. It is beautiful, but just SO touristy. It is insane how many people are there. Of course we had to stop and get our photos taken at the usual spot and also go inside the fancy Fairmont and see the overrated harpist making simple songs sound fancy with glissando while gaggles of spectators took her picture. It makes us laugh every time. And then we went back to the hotel for a swim.









One other fun thing to do in Lake Louise is the gondola at the Lake Louise ski resort. It takes you up mid-mountain and gives you a stunning view of the Bow Valley. Just remember to take off your hat before you head up on the gondola--Savanna lost hers when a breeze came through. I hope the black bear we saw picked it up and took it home to his little princess.

Finally

I finally had a chance to look at the pictures from our Canada trip. I thought that when 86% of my kids were in school, I would have time to work on a few projects. It turns out that although it is a blast having Zachary as my only buddy at home during the day, he is very entertaining, and he also likes to be entertained. He is so talkative and curious and energetic that as soon as we get home each day from the marathon of dropping kids off at 3 different schools, he is ready to play. I can usually sneak in a little bit of housework first thing, because he thinks it is really fun to "help" me vacuum, dust, clean toilets, etc. But pretty soon I get tired of this "help" and decide to move on to something else. We read and play and run around outside, eat lunch, play some more, and before I know it, it is time to go pick up kids from school.

OK. So our first stop in Canada was Banff. On our way up, we always have to stop and take a picture at this spot. The Continental Divide--the boundary between British Columbia and Alberta, and also between Kootenay and Banff National Parks.As this was our 3rd trip to Alberta, we had fine-tuned our accommodations. The first time we went, we stayed at the same hotel the entire trip. It was the Rimrock Resort, and it was luxurious. We had the most incredible view, and we loved it there. Only problem, it was a little fancy schmancy, and people there don't look kindly on a family of then-6 kids walking into the hotel with bags of groceries from Safeway. We also learned that although Banff is a pretty town, it is very touristy, and there are many, many things to do that required an hour or more of a drive from Banff. The second time we went, we found the perfect place to stay. Canmore is about 12 miles east of Banff, and cheaper to eat and stay in. We rented a 3-bedroom condo at Fire Mountain Lodge which had lots of room for all of us, and a full kitchen for cheapskate people like me who are perfectly capable of making oatmeal, pouring cereal or toasting a bagel for breakfast. We stayed here for the first 3 nights of our trip this year as well. It's a quick drive into Banff, and also a beautiful place to stay and explore on its own.

One place we always go in Banff is Bow Falls. It is a huge waterfall (likely a class 6 rapid--no skill necessary) with a park below where the kids love to throw rocks into the bright blue water. Despite the excellent throwing arms some of our kids have, nobody got hit in the head, and we enjoyed the afternoon there.In Canmore we took some walks along the Bow River. One day we came upon a beautiful park that we hadn't ever seen before. What an incredible location for a park. Huge Canadian Rockies on one side, and the Bow River on the other side. The kids played there forever.

Jacob noticed this huge head one day driving through Canmore. How have I NOT noticed this thing before--even when I ran by it every morning?
Mark and I didn't miss a run the whole time we were on vacation. We got up early and enjoyed the beautiful morning scenery. Our lungs didn't necessarily appreciate the elevation, but it was worth it to see the sun come up over the Canadian Rockies every morning. Poor hemoglobin.

Next stop: Lake Louise.

Monday, September 21, 2009

Athabasca River



I'm finally getting around to posting some of our Alberta adventures. Mark's camera was full of pictures, but I have been so crazy busy since we got home and the kids started school that it took a couple of weeks to get around to unloading his memory card.

If you ask the kids what their favorite thing we did in Canada was, they will all tell you it was rafting on the Athabasca River. It is a big, wild, crazy river, and the section they did was through the Athabasca Canyon, starting right below Athabasca Falls. But I did not get to go on this adventure. Mark took the 6 oldest kids, and I stayed back with Zack. To do the really fun rapids section of the river, you have to be 6 years old, which Zack is not. We could have ALL gone on a lame, calm section of the river, but why? What fun is a river without steep canyon walls at least class 3 rapids? We needed some clean clothes, anyway, so Zack and I spent the afternoon at the laundromat and walking around the town of Jasper while everyone else was on the river.

The rafting company outfitted everyone with wetsuits, wet shoes and splash jackets, and they were off for the time of their lives in 38 degree water.

Zack and I had a fun afternoon by ourselves. Zack thought it was fascinating to put money into washing machines. I was annoyed to pay $5 to use the same Dexter triple load washers I have in my basement at home. We washed and dried and took the laundry back to the hotel, and then we got an ice cream cone and sat on a bench and watched the trains come and go at the Jasper station. Zack is such a curious and talkative kid. It really was fun to spend the afternoon with just him after all the craziness and claustrophobia of 9 of us in a van or hotel room.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Coincidence?

The day we left for Canada was funny. Well, not really. But now looking back it was.

The night before we left, Joel was telling the kids about how funny it was that he was supposed to have had an ortho appointment that week to check his expander, but how instead they just scheduled him to come in and have it removed at the end of September. He was very excited to have his expander taken off. About 10 seconds later, the whole expander just snapped in two pieces. I called the orthodontist in the morning, and I had to work a trip to his office into my crazy day of packing and getting the car and kids ready to leave on a trip. They took off his expander and gave him a removeable retainer to get him through until we got back from our trip. Joel kept laughing about what a coincidence it was that as soon as he was talking about getting his expander off it broke and he had to have it removed.

We had another coincidence that day. As I said, I had a crazy, busy day of getting things done and ready to leave at 1:00 for our drive to Canada. I decided that as I had filled up the car with gas the night before, and had driven only about 30 miles that day, I didn't have time to top off the gas tank before we headed out. I knew that we had more than enough gas to make it to at least Spokane.

Well, I guess I didn't take into account a van loaded with 9 people and their luggage might use more gas than a 1/2 full van shuttling kids around. Or that when it is 100 degrees outside perhaps the air conditioner might suck some of the gas mileage away. Whatever. My gas light went on about 30 miles outside of Spokane. I knew that we had plenty of gas to make it, and there was nowhere to fill up anyway. Typically, in the 4 years I have been driving this van, the gas light means I have about 3 gallons left, or at least 75 miles on the freeway. Well, this time it meant I had 20 miles left. The coincidence happened though as Mark said, "How is your the gas gauge looking?" I said, "Well, the gas light went on just a little while ago, but I think we are fine."

We weren't fine. At that exact moment, the engine cut out. We coasted to a stop 10 miles outside of Spokane. What are the odds? So 9 of us sat in a hot car watching a porcupine on the side of the road while we waited for roadside assistance to bring us some gas.

Which is a whole other story. Which leads me to my next topic: The problem with outsourcing.

I have used our roadside assistance several times without a problem. The people are usually friendly, and help arrives in a reasonable amount of time. But this day I got a guy in India. I like India--I want to go there desperately. I love Indian food. I love the people from India. But when I get a customer service person from India, I know I'm in trouble. Hello, Trouble.

This guy kept asking me for my exact position so that he could call someone to help us.

Me: "I'm 10 miles west of Spokane, Washington on eastbound I-90. I can see milepost (whatever # it was) about 30 feet ahead of me."
Guy: "That doesn't help me, ma'am. I need to know your exact address or I cannot help you."
Me: "I'm not at an address. I'm on eastbound I-90 at this exact milepost. There is a freeway entrance 1/4 mile behind me."
Guy: "You must tell me which city you are in or I cannot send anyone to help you."
Me: "I'm not in a city. I'm trying to get to Spokane, but we ran out of gas 10 miles too soon. I'm in the middle of a freeway--I'm not in a city."
Guy: "Well, we cannot send anyone to help you if we do not know exactly where you are."
Me: "I do not have my GPS to give you my exact coordinates. I promise you that if you call any car service near Spokane and tell them I am on I-90 at this particular mile post, they will be able to find me."
Guy: "No. I must have an exact address."
Me: "I know that our policy covers us anywhere--including freeways. How many people run out of gas in their driveway?"
Guy: "I will put you on hold while I find a map."

10 minutes later and Mark on the phone this time. Same story--he cannot help us because we don't have an address. He went to find a map. Clearly, he didn't even know what I-90 meant or what a freeway was, or that Spokane, Washington was a city 10 miles to the east of us.

I decided to hang up and try my luck with someone else answering the phone. This time it was a very nice gal from the south who answered. She took my location--the same eastbound I-90 at milepost whatever location--and told me someone would be there within a half hour. Sure enough, 30 minutes later, the gas guy pulled up behind us. He was laughing, because last week he had brought someone else gas at the very same spot.

concerts

A couple of weeks ago Mark and I went to see The Pretenders. It made me think about all the concerts I have been to. Mark has been to a LOT more concerts in his time. The 80s were filled with excellent heavy metal concerts for him--and he had the t-shirt collection to prove it.

I, on the other hand, have not been to a lot of concerts in my life. My first concert was Chicago in 1985. I went with my dad--cool. My next concert was John Denver in 1987. Again, with my dad and mom. That was truly my favorite concert ever. I love John Denver. He is gone, but it is like he is still here for me because I love to listen to him and I sing his songs all the time. Especially "A Baby Just Like You" to Zachary...."Merry Christmas, Little Zachary." My first date with Mark was in December of 1991 to see America in Park City. That was a very fun concert out in the snow. In 1992 I went to a Metallica concert with Mark. I should dig out the picture from the event. I borrowed a black leather jacket, and used a hair crimper to really make my hair look nice for the occasion. Luckily, Mark had brought ear plugs for us, which was very thoughtful.

Many years went by, and Mark and I went to 2 Barry Manilow concerts here in Portland about 8 and 10 years ago. They were very fun. Mark likes Barry Manilow's music, which is lucky for me. Let's see....Kenny Loggins about 7 years ago was fantastic. And then I don't think I had been to a concert in all that time--until this summer. Lots and lots of symphonies, but not a real concert.

Late July we were treated to a Sugarland concert by some friends. Mark and I had never actually heard Sugarland, but we went along and had a really great time. I LOVED her voice. The concert was general admission, and we were there super early and still ended up with booney-ville seats, though. But it was fun nonetheless.

The Pretenders concert was amazing--at least once Chrissie finally made it out after the horrible opening acts. First opening act was Juliette Lewis. Yes, that same actress from Christmas Vacation. Her costume was very disturbing. At first I thought it would be better if she took of her vest made of enormous feathers. I was wrong. I wish she had left the vest on. When you are on the 2nd row, you see a lot of things you can't see while seated further back. As much as I disliked WATCHING her prance and jerk around on the stage, I disliked listening to her sing/scream/screetch even more. She just looked very sad and lost. Perhaps there are some with a more critical ear for hard rock who could judge whether or not she is actually talented in this area. All I can say is she sure was enthusiastic. In my opininion, it was just shocking.

The second opening act was Cat Power. I had never heard of her before, but I did a little internet research to see that she is actually quite well known, and that she has been through some alcohol-related issues recently, but that she was currently on an upswing. Well, maybe she WAS on an upswing, but it was clearly a downswing the night I saw her. She walked out on stage and didn't say a thing. She didn't look at the crowd at all. She looked like she had rolled out of bed and put on someone else's black stretch jeans that were a size too small. Again, being on the 2nd row we could see everything. She wanted to be done before she started singing her first song. It was the most agonizing 45 minutes of depressing songs I could imagine. Not so much her songs that were depressing (well, OK, they were), but just the way she was twitching and tweaking and grabbing her pockets, jeans, shirt over and over. She was clearly on something. She kept turning her back to the crowd, not once every looking out at the audience, except when she finally finished her set, she walked off the stage and mouthed, "I'm sorry. I'm $%^&-up." No kidding. Really? The only question was what her drug of choice was that night.

And then The Pretenders finally came out and made it all worthwhile. I love Chrissie Hynde's voice, and immediately jumped up out of my seat and started singing along. So did everyone else around, so I was OK. It was a very fun night.

Overall, I'm glad we went. Although, next time I go to a concert at McMenamins, I will skip the opening acts and show up 2 hours later for the real show.